Fruity and well structured, this affordable wine offers generous black-cherry and baking-spice flavors and an appetizing texture that lightly grips the palate. Rhubarb and tea notes come out with further time in the glass. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.

This wine’s delicacy carries remarkable concentration and vibrant flavors. It layers apricot and nectarine over the zesty scent of clementine rind. Age shows up as darker shades of bergamot, caramel and salted nuts, contrasting the cool, brisk fragrance of the fruit and lasting with a little sweetness on the lips. It’s clean and fresh, a beautiful wine with more stamina than most 40-year-olds.

For Jonathan Eichholz, sommelier and director of the No Ceilings pop-up in NYC, this was his favorite of this flight of moscatels, appealing in its balance of aged character and fresher notes of apricot jam and jasmine tea. It’s fully mature, showing some edges of alcohol along with a lovely orange blossom scent. It’s rich, smoky and sweet, to sip with a cheese course.

JM da Fonseca’s cellars on the Setúbal Peninsula store a trove of ancient, remarkably youthful fortified wines made from the local moscatel. Like an age-designated Tawny Port, this is blended from older lots and some younger, fresher wines to a style that approximates a 20-year-old. And 20 years seems like the optimal age for Alambre, still bright and sunny, with luscious peach and yellow-plum flavors. Its gentle length and persistent sandy sweetness would match a savory course of pork rillettes or foie gras as readily as it would Queijo Serra da Estrella served at the end of the meal.

A thickly textured red, boasting plum, fruitcake, milk chocolate, leather, earth and spice notes. Dense, tannic and rigid on the finish for now. Best from 2021 through 2030. 550 cases made, 50 cases imported. -B.S.

Light and dry with fine, lasting bubbles and notes of lemon, grapefruit, chalk, sea shell, vanilla custard and meringue. Vegan.

This is the top-shelf wine from Sergio Zingarelli. His namesake 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Sergio Zingarelli (100% Sangiovese) shows rich concentration and a seamless delivery of aromas that spans from black cherry and plum to spice and moist pipe tobacco. The fruit here is soft and luscious, but the mouthfeel is medium in length. It would turn a platter of modest carne asada soft tacos into an important dinner. Some 10,500 bottles were made.

Both smoky and fresh, this Gavi delivers a wealth of guava, pomelo, gooseberries and grapefruit, as well as fresh-clove and wet-stone character. Full-bodied and waxy on the palate, which has a textured core of green fruit. Fleshy yet elegant on the finish. Drink now.

Lots of blue fruit, as well as orange peel and other citrus. Full body. Fruity and creamy textured. Drink now.

Extremely perfumed with flowers, dried fruit and spices on the nose and palate. Full body. Very complex flavors. Structured yet refined palate. Drink or hold.

Gold

Gold

Gold

Gold

Double Gold

Double Gold